Opinion | Fashion labels' reliance on big names is a double-edged sword

What's in a name? Quite a lot, it seems, if the fashion industry is anything to go by. Last week two famed designers had their moment in the spotlight.

First, Swedish retail giant H&M announced a deal with easy-chic French designer Isabel Marant - a continuation of the high-low collaborations that have changed the game on the high street. Madonna, Karl Lagerfeld, Maison Martin Margiela and Commes des Garcons have all knocked out HK$500 tops and bottoms with the retailer.

In the contemporary and designer fashion segment, it was Taiwanese-Canadian designer Jason Wu who made headlines as the new artistic director of Hugo Boss womenswear and accessories. Appointing a famous name to head the brand's flagging women's lines is both a creative and a marketing-driven choice.

The young Wu has been based in New York and is already a darling of the American fashion world, championed by the likes of Anna Wintour at Vogue. With friends in high places, he has managed to dress American First Lady Michelle Obama at several major events, including both her husband's inaugurations.

Wu's designs, noted for their elegant femininity, luxe fabrication and a modern touch, are just the thing to spice up Hugo Boss' somewhat staid offerings for women. Those glamorous gowns that he is famous for, not without a hint of edginess and sparkle, could help to save the women's label from its dated "work-focused pant suit" reputation.

It's no secret that the German label is also largely reliant on a Chinese clientele, having just thrown a huge catwalk show and after party in Shanghai. Its many lines and more accessible price points have big potential for attracting the mainland's middle class.