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So near, yet so feared: Just the ticket

Cecilie Gamst Berg

2-MIN READ2-MIN
Cue queues: getting a ticket at Guangzhou East Railway Station. Photo: Cecilie Gamst Berg

Can a machine be racist? In the mainland it can. Well, maybe not racist, but certainly identity-ist - as my friend L and I found out to our chagrin in Guangzhou East Railway Station recently.

Machines have edged out human-operated ticket counters but, as customers have to enter their name (in Chinese characters) along with their ID card number and who knows what else, it takes 10 times as long to buy a ticket from a machine.

Things were to get worse. After languishing for aeons in one of the glacier-speed queues (there are a couple of manned counters but, understandably, they're backed up even more) we found that the machines are only for mainland citizens and Hong Kong residents with a "return to the ancestral village" pass.

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But … but … we were only going to Dongguan! Yes, in a moment of madness I had suggested we do something wild and spontaneous - spend the night in an infamous factory town hellhole I had hitherto only observed, shuddering at its ugliness and swearing never to set foot therein, from speeding trains. Now I was suddenly all "conquer your fear of the unknown, tear down your prejudices".

Pretty heroic, in other words, but now we were stuck in a stupid station. We'd just have to spend the night in Guangzhou and start queuing for a manual ticket at 5am, for now I was set on seeing Dongguan with all my heart.

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But I had forgotten the golden rule of the mainland: whatever you need will be provided before you know you need it. As soon as we stepped out of the station, a guy sidled up: "Taxi, Shenzhen?" Wow! Er … how about halfway there?

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