So far more than 1,400 Thais have been killed by the virus.

Authorities say they will consider extending opening hours to 11pm and lifting the alcohol ban in coming weeks.

But restaurant owners say it is too late and have a long list of complaints: no provision of tests or vaccines for customer-facing staff, an absence of wage relief, shortened opening hours, the booze ban and bungled communication about when they will be allowed to operate as normal.

“Nothing is clear ... can we resume our business in 14 days, will we be getting any help?” Thitid Tassanakajohn, executive chef at Michelin-starred Le Du, asked on behalf of the sector on Facebook recently. 

“It’s like we’re being put in a boat to drift away to die one at a time.” 

The lament from Le Du, which for now is offering a limited menu including golden snapper and local wagyu short rib at a near 20 per cent discount, was echoed across the country. 

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“There is no solid governmental policy to assist and support stand-alone restaurant businesses,” said chef Bo Songvisava.

In May, Bo and her husband Dylan Jones were forced to close their acclaimed restaurant Bo.lan after 13 years of fine dining.

Round after round of the pandemic had hammered business, she said, but the government’s latest partial lockdown and the restrictions imposed were the final straw.

“After the third wave, there were 14 days of semi-lockdown, during which restaurants were allowed to operate takeaway only,” she said.    

“Then, they allowed a quarter of the seating to be used, but with an alcohol ban. For me, that put an end to the culinary scene.” 

The independent mid-tier, with its diversity of food, innovation and owner-driven character, is being erased from some Bangkok neighbourhoods, raising fears the city’s culinary reputation is now on the line.

“Bangkok has already lost some important restaurants,” said Jarrett Wrisley, a long-time Bangkok restaurant owner, who predicts big chains will swoop on struggling businesses and homogenise the city’s once eclectic food scene. 

“The high-end restaurants catering to the wealthy will be fine. The restaurants serving the working class will also survive. But there’ll be fewer standalone restaurants and more chain restaurants,” he said.

Bounce back?

Others are more optimistic for the future of a city which has reinvented itself after repeated economic and political crises and natural disasters before - luring new investment as one of the world’s most visited cities, with abundant homegrown produce and cheaper rents and labour than other Asian hubs like Hong Kong.

“Bangkok will bounce back for sure,” said Naphalai Areesorn, former editor-in-chief of society magazine Thai Tatler.

“Everything will go back to what it was, because of the reputation of Bangkok, the attitude and mentality. Thais are very sociable people. We’re dying to get back out there.” 

As a marker of the resilience of Thai restaurants, Michelin - the givers of the famous stars - say three quarters of their recognised restaurants in the city are open, well above the global average as the pandemic decimates food businesses everywhere.

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What made Bangkok “unique”, said Tippawan Nitijessadawong, Michelin Guide Thailand Director, was its gastronomic diversity.

“You can enjoy local culture reflected in a bowl of noodles, a great street food, for lunch then end with cutting-edge fine dining at some skyscraper for dinner on the same day,” she said. 

“We think the city will hold strong on its position.”

But it may be too late for some of the food scene’s best-known faces who have run out of road after juggling staff salaries, bank loans, rents and collapsed income over a punishing 14 months.

“The government has done absolutely nothing to help us… zero,” said Wrisely.

 “People like me are going out of business for good.”