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The Italian job

Mark Graham

FOLLOWING IN THE footsteps of one of the world's most feted designers would fray most people's nerves, but Frida Giannini was too concerned with another event to be worried.

While the fashion media tittle-tattled about the credentials of the relatively unknown designer who took over the Gucci mantle from Tom Ford (who left in 2004), she was busy organising her wedding.

'It was a wonderful time in my life,' says Giannini. 'I designed my own wedding dress - a white silk chiffon and satin dress with hand embroidered crystal work. We honeymooned in Capri, Positano and on some of the islands and I came back recharged, ready for my debut collection for Gucci in Milan.'

That spring/summer 2006 collection, due in Hong Kong stores soon, was scrutinised by the fashion cognoscenti for any lapse in the consistently high standards set by Ford during his 10 years as creative director of Gucci.

The two could hardly be more different. Ford is entering middle age, American, high profile, flamboyant and a darling of the media; Giannini, at 33, is Italian, lower key and, hitherto, a name that didn't register instantly in the international fashion world.

'At first, I was flattered when the company decided to give me the job,' she says. 'I don't think I need to compare my job and the job that was done before under Tom Ford. We're from a different generation and have different personalities. My ambition is to be remembered for inventing a new era in Gucci. I think it can work very well to link the clothes and accessories, so they're totally complementary. That is the challenge for me.'

The task wasn't made less daunting by the fact that her predecessor, Alessandra Fachinetti - Ford's replacement and protegee - left the company after one year in the job and two collections that received only lukewarm reviews.

When Giannini stepped up to the plate earlier this year, she turned to what she knew best and drew inspiration from the popular floral accessories line that she created for the brand.

'The spring/summer collection was a starting point for me. It was an opportunity for me to bring a little joy to Gucci. I think that my experience as an accessories designer, where I learnt to love colours and prints, were reflected. I love the prints and heritage of the company, and I wanted to translate these into the clothes. I wanted to mix all these elements together in a sexy way, because I think the word 'sexy' is very much part of the Gucci DNA.

'But my interpretation of sexiness is different because times are different now, and I'm thinking more of a contemporary woman, a woman of my generation. She doesn't need to try too hard when dressing. She's more free, more confident and more of an optimist. It's not an overt sexiness, but more feminine.'

This femininity is seen throughout her first collection. Some of the old school Ford/Gucci is there with the well-cut and constructed trouser suits, long sexy evening numbers and key-hole tops. But to soften the look Giannini has added her own touches with bright florals (including prints taken from the brand's archives), 1940s-inspired shapes and bold colours that are wearable and sexy. And, although the collection has yet to turn heads like Ford's did, it shows plenty of promise. Giannini is very much the modern Italian career woman. After studying fashion at college, the novice designer joined a small company to learn more about the mechanics of the job. She moved to Fendi as a ready-to-wear designer and worked there for five years before joining Gucci in 2002. Two years later, she was made head of accessories, which accounts for more than 80 per cent of the company's sales.

The rise up the corporate ladder meant a move from Rome to Florence. However, Italy's fashion capital does have its compensations.

'My apartment is a historical palazzio from the 15th century, with a fabulous view of the Duomo [cathedral] and all the sights of Florence,' she says. 'I love to stay in a place that can represent history, and my job is something new and contemporary. It's a five-minute walk to the office - right in the centre of Florence.'

Since taking over as creative director of womenswear, Giannini's working day has changed radically. Meetings with suppliers and discussions with fellow designers occupy large chunks of her time.

Since stepping into the Gucci spotlight, her own taste in clothes has come under scrutiny from columnists and fashion writers. Eclectic is possibly the best word to describe her style.

'I don't have a business wardrobe,' she says. 'I wear the same things in the office I wear outside with my family and friends. I love to mix and I love to change. It depends on my humour in the morning when I get up. If I have an important meeting, I never prepare the night before - I always decide at the last minute.

'Society is changing, and as a designer, I need to reflect those changes. For example, I might go to the office with a pair of vintage denim jeans, a thick printed shirt, golden sandals and accessories in gold, or another day in a black dress.'

Long working hours leave few opportunities for relaxation, but, if time permits, Giannini will rustle up pasta dinners at home for friends.

Right now, she's hunkered down with her team in Florence, putting the finishing touches to her second collection, autumn/winter 2006, which will be presented next month. A promotional visit to Hong Kong and China is on the cards for later this year.

'I'm really looking forward to visiting Asia,' she says. 'I adore travelling and take inspiration from my trips. You can't understand a place from the pictures or movies - you have to walk the streets.

'I think the inspiration for a designer can arrive from everywhere: walking in the street, or seeing a movie, or reading a book, or finding something interesting in a flea market.'

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