Paris Fashion Week finished on Wednesday with a powerful finale to the autumn-winter 2013 collections. If the beginning of the nine-day event seemed dark and severe, the ending served to bring out the most playful and positive of next season's designs.
At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs nudged and winked to the fashion world, dressing models Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne in barely there silk lingerie slips hemmed with fine lace, playful pyjama robes and long, heavy coats dipped in sequins. Jacobs leveraged sex appeal with style - the hotel corridor set-up suggesting midnight liaisons.
In contrast, at Moncler Gamme Rouge there was no skin showing. Under a blanket of fake snow, mountaineering men roped their way across a zipline and models walked real huskies on leashes. Then came an intense parade of Inuit-style furs, white, black and mohair tartans and crystals painstakingly applied to white jackets fit for an ice queen. A rogue husky escaping from its leash had the audience cheering when it made its own way back down the catwalk.
Delicious hues, playful polka dots and candy stripes, Miu Miu's collection pitted a youthful, cartoonish look against dark vintage-inspired jackets that beautifully exaggerated the hourglass shape.
The little neck scarves were a lovely whimsical touch.
Red-carpet favourite Elie Saab, however, turned towards a more modernist muse. Pure strict lines and unfussy silhouettes gave the gowns a simple, heightened elegance. Necklines were high and demure, so Saab injected femininity through the use
of embroidered sheers and lace panels.