Restaurant review: Kaum in Sai Ying Pun – Bali import brings authentic tastes of the island of the gods
Seared eel fillet the star of the show on a menu full of tempting dishes
Oh, how Sai Ying Pun has changed. It used to be a quiet neighbourhood just below Bonham Road, with streets lined with auto repair shops, laundries and inexpensive restaurants. Those places have given way to craft beer pubs, ramen shops and stylish “concepts” such as Potato Head, an import from Bali that combines design, music, art and food.
The menu is tempting, but because we visited on the day of typhoon Nida, some of the dishes were unavailable.
My favourite dish was the seared eel fillet (HK$148). We didn’t see any evidence of the grilled cherry tomatoes listed as an ingredient, but the green chilli and green tomato relish added a nice balance to the fatty succulence of the eel.
When reading the menu, we immediately focused on the fried crispy duck (HK$258), tempted by the fermented durian chilli sauce. Both the duck and sauce (which was served on the side) were delicious – the duck meat was tender and moist, even the breast, which was completely cooked. We would have liked even more durian in the sauce although we can understand why they stopped when they did, because many people would be put off by the fruit’s pungency.
Roasted baby pig with Balinese spices (HK$258) was another good meaty dish. Fans of crispy skin will be disappointed – the skin here is soft, but it was tender, with a very fine layer of fat underneath, and moist meat.
Kaum, Potato Head, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, tel: 2858 3036. About HK$300 without drinks or the service charge