Restaurant review: Feather & Bone in Sai Ying Pun – a meat-lover’s menu with mixed results

It seems logical that our favourite dishes at Feather & Bone are meaty ones, given that the company got its start as a retail shop with an excellent meat selection (although we also like their other products). They've since expanded into restaurants (with a grocery selection) in Happy Valley and the newest in Sai Ying Pun, which is the one we visited.

The space was buzzing when we arrived – almost all the seats were filled. My guest's fish cake starter (HK$120) came with a herb salad and a delicious saffron-infused rouille. The fish cake itself was disappointing because it had too much potato and not enough fish, and was served tepid, not hot.

My starter of beef tartare (HK$110) was much better. The generous portion of grass-fed tenderloin had a very clean, not too heavy taste. It was coarsely chopped and flavoured with horseradish, a nice alternative to the more usual mustard.

We had opposite luck with our mains. The restaurant offers a choose-your-own-meat option where you go to the butcher counter, pick the meat (different cuts of beef and lamb are on offer), tell them how you want it cooked, and choose a sauce and side. My guest chose a dry-aged, grain-fed sirloin (HK$78.20 per 100 grams; his steak was HK$263.30). It was nicely charred and cooked to a perfect medium-rare, and came with fries that we liked so much we considered ordering more.

The cassoulet (HK$220) I had for my main course could have been so much better – if only it had been hot. Tepid pork belly means congealed fat, which isn’t pleasant to eat. The beans were rather bland, but the Toulouse sausage had good flavour, and there was an unexpected (but delicious) addition of seared foie gras. The cassoulet came on a plate, instead of being served in a ramekin which would have helped to keep it hot.

Desserts were also mixed. The chocolate fondant (HK$88) had been overcooked, so the centre was firm, not melting; although as a cake, it had good flavour, and the chocolate ice cream served with it was even better. The lemon meringue (HK$88) was let down by the lemon curd, which was far too salty.

Feather & Bone, Bohemian House, 321 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun, tel. 3705 0280. About HK$445 without drinks or the service charge.

While you’re in the area:

Restaurant review: Rhoda in Sai Ying Pun – delicious, if a little too heavy