G/F and 1/F Park Avenue Tower, 5 Moreton Terrace, Causeway Bay
Tel: 2870 1102
Open: 11.30am-3.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm
Price: about HK$300 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: the decor is a mix of modern and retro, with carved wooden screens and a chandelier made of porcelain spoons.
Pros: it's discreet, quiet and comfortable. Tables are set well apart.
Cons: while the filling in the shrimp dumplings (HK$39 for three) was good - the shrimp were crisp and plentiful - the wrapper was too tender, and fell apart. The char siu puffs (HK$45 for three) had delicate puff pastry, but the flavour of the preserved lemon sprinkled on top overwhelmed. Deep-fried turnip pastry (HK$40 each) was the most disappointing of the dim sum dishes we tasted - the filling was scant and had made the thick layer of mantao (Chinese yeast bread) soggy. The fried rice with five shrimps (HK$168) - meat, roe, tomalley, shrimp paste and dried baby shrimp - were not nearly as intensely flavoured as you'd expect.
Recommended dishes: deep-fried taro dumplings (HK$42 for three) had a delicately crisp coating. Fried glutinous ham sui gok (fried glutinous rice dumplings, HK$42 for three) were as light as they could be, although they could have had more filling. The pomelo skin and goose web in abalone sauce (HK$108 each) was excellent. The goose web was wonderfully tender, and the spongy pomelo skin soaked up the rich sauce. While the crab in the dish of steamed flower crab with chicken fat and hua diu wine (market price; ours was HK$450) was not as sweet as we're used to, the sauce more than made up for it. It was a perfect balance of wine and richness from the chicken fat, which, when mixed and cooked together, made a sauce that was far lighter than you'd expect from the description.
What else? Moreton Terrace isn't the easiest street to find - it's under the Gloucester Road flyover.