Chances are that the next time you buy a bottle of champagne it will be from one of the major brands such as Heidsieck, Lanson or Moet et Chandon. These companies - known as Negociant-Manipulant (NM) - dominate the market, accounting for 70 per cent of shipments. They buy in grapes from 15,000 wine growers who own more than 90 per cent of the vineyards in Champagne. The remaining 30 per cent of shipments is taken up by grower brands and co-operatives. These growers make their own wines instead of selling the fruit to the major houses.

Michael Edwards, a champagne expert, says "for individuality and terroir, consumers should focus on grower champagne". Most of them are family owned businesses, producing small volumes under their own brands. There may be more variation from one vintage to another as the fruit comes from a specific plot of land. For large houses, buying from grape growers all over Champagne can maintain consistency in style. Grower champagne remains a niche product, and can be found in specialist wine shops and restaurants. On the label, look for RM which stands for Recoltant-Manipulant.

One that has an established following among champagne lovers is Egly-Ouriet. Francois Ouriet runs the family business from the village of Ambonnay. His holdings are about 11 hectares, of which 9.7 hectares are Grand Cru status. His most recent acquisition is two hectares of Premier Cru pinot meunier in Vrigny.