The Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean & Pierre Troisgros
By Jean and Pierre Troisgros
The name Troisgros is one of the most revered in French cuisine - for close to 50 years, gourmets have been making the pilgrimage to Roanne, near Lyon, to eat at the family-run restaurant. With brothers Jean and Pierre in the kitchen, La Maison Troisgros came to the notice of The Michelin Guide, whose three-star rating the restaurant has held since 1968. La Maison Troisgros is now in the hands of Pierre's son, Michel.
Back in the 1960s, French haute cuisine was complex, heavy, rich and fattening but a new breed of chefs - such as Michel Guerard and the brothers Troisgros - began making food that was lighter and more delicate, letting the seasonal, quality ingredients shine. Yes, that sounds like the food we eat today - but back then, it was radical.
The photos and styling (or lack of it) in The Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean & Pierre Troisgros are far more dated than the recipes. Some of the dishes, with a little tweak, wouldn't be out of place on a menu today. They include raw salmon with Saint Pierre; lobster soup with baby eels; red mullet with beef marrow; pigeon with garlic sauce; steamed truffles with potatoes; braised artichoke bottoms with chervil; and cactus fruit sherbet.