Above: caretaker arranges pictures of Ferdinand Marcos at the former president's mausoleum and museum in Batac, Ilocos Norte. Below: completed in 1710, Paoay Church, a Roman Catholic parish church in Ilocos Norte province, was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1993. Photos: AFP, Corbis

Going Ilocos

The northwestern provinces of Luzon, in the Philippines, have weathered nature and survived battle to retain their distinct charm, writes Glenn A. Baker.