• Sat
  • Dec 20, 2014
  • Updated: 2:41pm

Simon Tam

Perfect match: hairy fare

Perfect match: hairy fare

The season for hairy crab is nearing its end. A delicacy that baffles the uninitiated, it is eaten for its rich roe (the term, here, including sperm) rather than its flesh, like other types of crab.

Saturday, 8 December, 2012, 11:05pm

A wider horizon

After graduating from the Chinese University of Hong Kong (CUHK) with a degree in business administration in 2001, Simon Tam joined the banking industry. He has worked for a couple of banks, and is currently a manager at the headquarters of the Bank of Communications. Tam finds working in the industry rewarding as he can help clients in needs.

9 Jun 2012 - 12:00am

Perfect match

Beef brisket is a cut of meat that is at its best when braised. Not only does this long, slow cooking method tenderise the meat, it also allows the braising liquid to penetrate it, making the seasoning more complete and integrated. Tough, rubbery beef tendon softens in about the same time it takes to cook brisket, and, in Chinese cuisine, the two are often braised together.

3 Jun 2012 - 12:00am

Perfect Match

For a dish of fried rice with crab, conpoy and egg white to be a success, fresh crab meat is vital. The dish has complementary textures that are ever so slightly varied, with chewy conpoy (dried scallop), succulent crab meat and sweet, tender egg white. When mixed with the fried rice, random bites of the various ingredients will take you to textural heaven.

22 Apr 2012 - 12:00am

Perfect match

If there is one ingredient in Chinese cuisine in which texture is the sole consideration, it has to be fish maw. The swim bladder of big fish is considered an exotic delicacy.

18 Mar 2012 - 12:00am

Perfect match

Root vegetables are at their best in winter, with the cold weather making them more flavourful and tender. Pan-fried white radish cake is not only eaten during Lunar New Year but is popular year-round as a dim sum dish. The steamed radish cake is seasoned with diced cured meat and seafood, which add richness, contrasting textures, meaty bites and depth.

12 Feb 2012 - 12:00am

Perfect Match

I suspect that adding a few wee drams of your favourite Islay single malt to a marinade for barbecue pork fillet would horrify some whisky connoisseurs. But it works.

20 Nov 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

For foodies, Singapore has a lot to offer: not just wonderful local food but also excellent Italian, French and other European cuisine. The city-state is famous for crab dishes. Chilli crab comes in various degrees of spiciness and sweetness, but the base is a rich tomato and chilli sauce thickened with egg.

30 Oct 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

Hairy crab season has just started in Hong Kong and it's well underway in Shanghai, where the crustaceans can be seen in restaurant tanks across the city. While its meat is almost worthless, connoisseurs prize the crustacean for its rich, creamy, sweet roe. Hairy crab is traditionally served with vinegar for a sweet-sour contrast.

18 Sep 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

The wu yu (threadfin fish) is not much of a looker. With its large mouth and grey-black colour, it resembles an overgrown tadpole. But it more than compensates for its ugliness with a succulent and slightly earthy taste. Although it is delicious in congee, the fish is best when deep fried and drizzled with soy sauce.

14 Aug 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

Egg is a wonderful, nutritious food, conveniently wrapped in its own protective container. It's used throughout the world in a mind-boggling variety of dishes. In Chinese cuisine, it appears in everything from home-style dishes, such as the humble scrambled egg with tomato, to the more extravagant crab egg foo yung.

17 Jul 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

The Dungeness crab, found abundantly off the west coast of the United States, lives in cold seawater, which makes its meat deliciously sweet.

3 Jul 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

Although it's getting warmer and there's a risk of the odd sudden downpour, it's still a pleasant time of year to eat alfresco. Unfortunately, dining at one of Hong Kong's superb dai pai dong has become more difficult due to zealous implementation of government regulations.

5 Jun 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

The lamprey is a frightfully ugly creature, similar in shape to an eel but with a large, blood-sucking mouth. In France's Bordeaux region, the lamprey is braised with red wine, leek and herbs to make the classic dish lamproie a la bordelaise. The obvious match for this dish would be red bordeaux, but any wine with enough richness to stand up to the oily, succulent jawless fish will work.

24 Apr 2011 - 12:00am

Perfect match

There's an old Chinese saying that goes something like this: 'Don't put your woolies away until after Ching Ming ...' to which I would add, '... and ma la hotpot is just the thing'. Although many of us think of hotpot as cold-weather food, ma la hotpot is savoured year-round in Taiwan.

10 Apr 2011 - 12:00am

Pages