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Canaries squawk in mining country

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Down in the coal mines beneath Donetsk they use the latest technology to detect the danger that lurks amid the seams of black gold that has built this far-flung venue city and made it one of the richest - and remotest - locations between Berlin and Beijing. Small wonder the canary-yellow adorned Ukrainian supporters - all 53,000 of them - squawked wildly when their clear equaliser against England in the group D decider was missed by the linesmen. The locals have built their future on their ability to see clearly in the dark. So on the myopic official they heaped derision in the only way they know how - in spades.

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The Communist heritage of Donetsk is abundant. Statues of Lenin and Soviet architecture live cheek by jowl on the wide roads lined with free-enterprising cafes, bars and designer shops; kerbsides stuffed with the new-moneyed vehicles of choice. And it is all thanks to Welshman John Hughes, who built a steel plant and several coal mines here early in the last century.

The original name of Donetsk - Yuzovka - was penned after him. The city is twinned with the former steel town of Sheffield and it was outside the Golden Lion, located just down from Liverpool Market Street, that the small number of good-natured travelling England fans congregated.

'I've been following England for 12 years on tournaments through the official fan club and there are normally 8,000 of us. But people have stayed away. It's partly the recession back at home, a little bit of the racism scandal - evidence of which I have not seen. But mostly it's the ridiculous price hikes,' said England fan Tim, from Blackpool.

'I am staying at the airport tonight. It's not that I can't afford the GBP200 (HK$2,440) for a tiny bunk in a one-star hotel. I won't on principal. I'd rather pay the gardener to sleep in that rose bed.'

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The 3,000 who did make the journey sang long into the night.

The England anthems in this Welsh-engineered town, Ukraine's fifth largest with more than a million citizens, were conducted in the shadow of the city's opera house, a garish Soviet wedding cake-like structure. Across the road is a huge statue of Lenin, right arm gesturing as if scattering the doctrines of the Communist manifesto. Roy Hodgson's men have also made a public declaration here and it was worth the dash from my last match in Lviv to sign up to.

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