Dwarika's Hotel in Kathmandu is an oasis of calm amid the smoggy streets and blaring truck horns of Nepal's capital, set within a cavernous maze of traditional clothing shops, age-old momo joints and shifty tourist traps.
But make no mistake: this isn't some kind of ignorant escape for bored nouveau riche children to stay in the lap of luxury while snubbing all that is truly Kathmandu. Far from it - the hotel's late owner, Dwarika Das Shrestha, was an avid collector of the country's now-depleted traditional architecture: intricately carved wooden doors, window frames and walls, among other items.
As his hoard grew to unrealistic proportions, he began to transform his humble house, built in the late 1950s, into a heritage paradise. Its transition into a hotel was a slow and steady process - a couple of exchange students here, a few religious pilgrims there - but soon visitors from around the world were appearing at his former home.
Dwarika's blends the history and culture of Kathmandu with new-found comfort. Unlike the endless corridors of rooms at leading hotel chains, Dwarika's attention to each guest has pared the focus down to an intimate selection of 87 rooms and suites.
Each abode comes with a few of its own elements, with pieces dating as far back as the 13th century next to all the modern amenities that one would expect: flat screen televisions, stereo systems, high-pressure showers.
Dwarika's most extravagant offering is the Royal Suite, which has hosted Prince Charles, Sir Edmund Hillary and several US presidents. Taking inspiration from the private residences of Nepal's 12th century Malla kings, the suite is set over three floors and features an impressive main bedroom and spacious bathroom alongside a reception area, breakfast terrace, meeting spaces, and a private lounge with sundeck overlooking the Kathmandu Valley.