FASHION liberation? It's on the calendar for spring. When local designers sketched their designs for spring 95, they bid adieu to the shackles of cashmere and politically correct gabardine. The look is free, casual, feminine, sexy and fun. Make way for diaphanous and slithery threads in silk, satin and supple leather. Designer Rowena U challenges women to free themselves from male-female images by mixing accessories - why not wear running shoes or boots with something slithery and sexy? U relies on soft, supple lamb-nappa, knits and lamb-suede. Her colours are neutrals, such as honey and cocoa-brown. And when the temperatures rise, think leather. 'Many believe leather is for cold weather,,' U says. 'It keeps out the wind, but being a natural fabric, it also breathes. Lamb-nappa is light and soft and wears well in warm weather without being uncomfortable.' And of her own designs U says: 'It's a silhouette for everyone, the Western woman, Asian and Chinese.' Peter Lau's vision is couture's answer to 'less is more'. 'Although knee-length is making a comeback, my spring look will be dominated by an ultra-short silhouette with tiny skirts or dresses to reveal knickers,' he says. 'Oriental influence will be patterns and brocade.' Lau agrees with colleague Walter Ma on footwear: strappy stilettos. A major element in Ma's look will be a chiffon blazer worn over a jersey knee-length dress. The waif, punk and innocent look are out, according to Lu Lu Cheung. She uses words feminine and romantic to describe her mind-set to spring. Fabrics are sheer, soft, and comfortable - silk chiffon, organza, viscose mix and washed linen mix. Except for an occasional dramatic splash of black with white, the colours are pale, pastels and earth tones. 'After years of waif, punk and innocent, it's time for a return to femininity,' she says. 'The look appeals to most women.' Relaxing, comfortable and free are the influences in Roddy Leung's designs. He opts for a knee-length skirt with a long cardigan. 'It expresses a lifestyle,' he says. 'The long cardigan and knee-length skirt give a new proportion.'