IN a decade when 'avant-garde' designers like John Galliano and Jean-Paul Gaultier are producing retro classics such as kilts and Edwardian gowns, Rei Kawakubo distinguishes herself as the sole proprietor of the truly modern.
The 53-year-old designer, born in Tokyo, started school during the dramatic reconstruction that epitomised post-war Japan. And it could be the inevitable influence of this period that enables her to look at fashion design with so much objectivity, an almost architectural approach that has been the hallmark of Comme des Garcons style for nearly 25 years.
While she did not invent minimalism, she is credited with translating the concept into garments and the impact of her creativity is ranked up there with designing deities Claire McCardell and Madeleine Vionnet.
She is almost as famous for being media shy as for being a revolutionary designer. Her legendary shyness did not fail her at a recent luncheon to celebrate the launch of her new Comme des Garcons perfume. Sitting flanked by her publicists, assistants, and husband, Adrian Joffe (who acts as translator) one gets the feeling the 'shyness' is more a calculated coyness that allows her to make the perfect reply to any question.
Her comments are succinct replicas of her minimalist designs. 'I let the clothes do the talking for me,' she says.
MN: Did you always want to be a designer? Rei Kawakubo: 'My wish was always to be independent, have a job, and be able to support myself.' MN: You are often described as an 'avant-garde' designer. What does that term mean to you? RK: 'Avant garde for me means going beyond what is mainstream and generally accepted and looking for personal means of expression.' MN: It seems now that avant-garde fashion has made it into the mainstream. What current fashion 'trends' coming up do you like or dislike, which are significant? RK: 'Fashion trends do not interest me too much.' MN: Fashion in the 90s so far has been very retrospective, that is, we seem to keep recycling old ideas again and again with minor modifications. Do you think that will continue, or will fashion finally evolve into something entirely new? RK: 'It seems that there is no strong wish anymore to go forward. There are fewer people than before who take fashion seriously and strive to create something new.' MN: How would you compare the atmosphere in the fashion world of the 80s to today? RK: 'In the 80s there was a higher level of acceptance of the new and of creative expression. Now, however, a totally 'Retro' look is considered good.' MN: What inspires you? RK: 'In all different meanings, whatever is genuine and the 'real thing'.' MN: In the mid-80s, you made androgyny sexy and fashionable. What is sexy to you now? RK: 'Spiritual and human values seem to me to be the most important.' MN: You talk a lot about the importance of the relationship between fashion and space or the environment. Which is most important? RK: 'I apply the same values for everything that I create - clothes, furniture, shop spaces. They all have to be spiritually comforting and satisfying.' MN: How does this relate to the fragrance? RK: 'It is a fragrance for oneself, to make one feel positive - to raise the spirit and excite the emotions. I felt there was a need for this kind of fragrance. It is not a scent that women would wear to attract men.' MN: What's next for you? RK: 'I will keep doing what I am doing now; trying to have people understand the things that Comme des Garcons is putting forth - both the clothes and the spiritual values.'