IT'S been said that the clothes make the man. While that may not be strictly true, It doesn't hurt at least to know the basic rules of a gentleman's dress . . . even if you intend to break them. Not being a gentleman myself I was at a natural disadvantage and so sought the advice of some of Hong Kong's more elegant men to help me unfold the mysteries of menswear. The first thing I learned is that men have a much more exacting set of standards than women. Even subtle variance from the unwritten rules of men's dress can spell disaster. The last button on a waistcoat must never be buttoned, or the heavens will come crashing down; a clip-on bow-tie can be the ruin of a nation, etc.
The second thing about menswear is that, because of these narrowly defined margins of good taste, the average man spends half the time attempting to express his own 'individual style' within these self-imposed boundaries. This is very often achieved with stylish aplomb, but if the wearer gets it wrong, it can also result in a startling resemblance to Mr Bean. In an effort to help the male population of our fair city more toward the former (or at least avoid the latter) I defer to my elegant men.
The Seven Deadly Sins 1. Legible clothing of any description 2. White socks off the tennis court 3. 'Witty' or humorous underwear 4. Imitation leather anything 5. Grey shoes 6. Braces worn with a belt 7. Acid or 'stone washed' denim Where To Buy . . .
Suits Western: A-Man Hing Cheong (at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel) Grand Tailor (Furama Hotel) H. Baromon (Swire House, Central) Chinese: Shanghai Tang (Pedder Building, Central) Shirts Pacific Custom Tailors (Pacific Place) Ascot Chang (Prince's Building, Central) Mr Lee Man at Sunnie Shirts Homme or office service. Telephone: 2891-6380 Shoes Gucci (The Landmark) Church's (Pacific Place, Prince's Building and The Landmark) Meyer's Shoemaker (at the Mandarin) The haircut Norman at the Mandarin Oriental Barber shop Foster at La Coupe Olivier at the Ritz-Carlton The dry-cleaner Jeeves of Belgravia (Prince's Building) Alfred Dunhill wool dinner jacket with satin peaked lapels ($10,500) grosgrain silk bow tie ($450) and silk cummerbund ($1,000) at Pacific Place and Prince's Building, Central. Wing collar tuxedo shirt by Lanvin ($2,100) at The Landmark. 'I always just try to dress properly for the occasion.' - Alfred Chow, racing registry manager, Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club Grey flannel single-breasted suit ($8,950) blue cotton dress shirt ($995) silk tie ($695) and braided leather ($995) all by Alfred Dunhill. 'Good quality braces. Belts on suit trousers are a vulgar Americanism.' - Nicholas Sibley, managing director, Wheelock Capital Alfred Dunhill navy wool double-breasted blazer ($7,500) silk rep tie ($695). Lanvin blue cotton dress shirt ($1,400) 'The two favourite pieces of clothing in my wardrobe are a navy blue blazer and a pair of jeans . . . the combination can be worn together and it is the kind of casual attire which is appropriate for many occasions.' - Folco de Luca Gabrielli, Italian consul-general Lanvin navy blue wool and cashmere overcoat ($7,650) and silk tie ($695). Alfred Dunhill double-cuff shirt ($1,195). 'A man's wardrobe must contain at least 200 white shirts and 50 blue ones of different shades. He is required to have a choice from 350 ties for all occasions. Trousers should be worn with braces which are permitted to be multi-coloured and slightly vulgar . . . underpants should be of the boxer short variety (not jockey) made of pure cotton or silk and may be coloured. They should be tamper-proof. Overcoats should be warm, long, cashmere and dark blue. Waistcoats are permissible.' - Simon Murray, group executive chairman, Asia-Pacific, Deutsche Bank Lanvin burgundy velvet, silk lined smoking jacket ($4,900). Alfred Dunhill pink cotton dress shirt ($995) and silk cravat ($750). 'Jackets for sports wear, casual wear, attire for weddings, white tie and tails, dinner jacket, smoking jacket and morning coat are all mandatory.' - Simon Murray Alfred Dunhill red cashmere and wool waistcoat ($2,750). Lanvin silk cashmere turtleneck ($5,350) 'A black cashmere turtleneck and lots of self confidence, because if you have it you'll look good in anything.' - Ong Chin Huat, social editor, Hong Kong Tatler Navy linen jacket ($7,100) trousers ($1,995) and mint green new wool T-shirt ($1,465) all by Gianni Versace at the Landmark. 'Linen is my favourite fabric as it is uniquely practical for Asian heat and humidity. A linen suit can make you look dangerously like a journalist. But otherwise is extremely comfortable and unlike its wearer, the older it is, the better it looks and feels.' - Richard Lund, financial director, Prime Garments Shanghai Tang silk CDC 'Tang suit' ($2,800) at the Shanghai Tang Department Store, Central. 'One should rise above any charge of ridicule or pretentiousness because in truth, it is really ridiculous and pretentious for Chinese gentlemen to be wrapped in Western stuff sold at exorbitant prices. There ought to be a Boxer Rebellion Mark II in clothes! Throw away the French tie, the Italian suits, the English hat and the Swiss underwear - Buy Chinese!' - David Tang, chairman of Shanghai Tang. 'If Chinese wear Western suits, why shouldn't Westerners wear Chinese suits? They are much more comfortable and at least if enough people buy them at his imaginative prices, he could afford to buy something from A-Man.' - Nicholas Sibley Church's 'Grafton' brogue ($2,800) Hue striped socks ($95) and Alfred Dunhill cufflinks ($1,595). 'Church's shoes. For those who think that Mr Lobb's prices are now a little on the high side. Any Italian designed shoes are absolutely out.' - Nicholas Sibley. 'Any elegant man should have a dog's tooth sports jacket, a tuxedo in midnight blue with black satin lapels and bumble-bee striped socks with two-toned shoes.' - Simon Jackson, director, Simon Jackson & Associates