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Zesty gust from the Windy City

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THE King Lobster Seafood and Steak House, which opened in January, is a welcome addition to the Tsim Sha Tsui area, although the name initially threw me: I expected another cavernous, freezing-cold Cantonese seafood restaurant. Then I saw their advertisement: 'Live lobster from around the world, lobster sashimi, seafood, prime US Angus steaks.' I was still skeptical; I envisioned an upmarket Cafe de Coral. Was I floored when I walked in.

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Located in the newly renovated Toyo Mall, where the new Vietnamese rage W's 13th is also found, it is almost like walking into the Regent Steak House. It was a warm, dimly lit, intimate room: upmarket yet also suitable for families. You could walk in there in a three-piece-suit or jeans.

The restaurant scored points immediately when I called to book a table and had no problems. The friendly voice on the other end of the line got my name right without the usual repetitions I'm used to.

The service is excellent. Scotsman Derek McMillan, the service manager, works the room: helping with the table-side carving, giving suggestions to diners and assisting other staff. Ash-trays were replaced regularly and water glasses refilled. All the basic service demands were handled with flying colours.

Naturally I had to try the lobster. They offer three kinds: Tasmanian, Boston and local rock lobster, served just about any way imaginable. I inspected the seafood tanks and they had an expensive-looking filtration and ultra-violet light system. You're definitely not going to get nasty diseases here. Even the oysters were live. After dinner I checked out the kitchen, which is under the direction of K. Y. Chan, who formerly worked in the kitchens at the Kowloon Shangri-La. It was quite large, immaculately clean (even at 9.30 pm) and appeared very much under control.

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I split an order of lobster sashimi ($420) with my friend. It is sold at $500 per 800 grams so this one was about 670 grams. It came Japanese-style: chopsticks, wasabi, ginger, the works. The poor crustacean came all sliced-up with the head propped on a wooden board, still in its death throes. You asked for fresh? You got it! We devoured the sashimi, with me praying the lobster (or what was left of him) wasn't suffering.

We enjoyed every bite of the succulent delight - and there was plenty. It was followed by a second course (no extra charge), a lovely lobster and seafood soup. No, not one of those boring creamy lobster bisques, but a hearty red chowder containing the remaining lobster shell and bits of lobster and seafood. That was one tasty, zesty soup.

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