The first port of call for George

GEORGE Thomas David Sandeman doesn't wear a black cape or a wide-brimmed Spanish caballero's hat. Rather than the enigmatic figure on the label of his family's port, the seventh generation heir could pass for a ruddy-faced London banker.

The distinctive label - the Don in the Portuguese student's cape, the wide-brimmed hat - came from a drawing by George Massiot-Brown, which was purchased by the Sandeman family in 1928. It became one of the world's first trademark images. Sandeman was in Hong Kong recently to carry out a challenge, partially self-imposed, to change port's image. Appealing to cooks is one way.

The drink reserved for drawing rooms, equated with nuts or Stilton or a quick aperitif is more versatile than its staid image. A splash of ruby port in chocolate mousse, in a coarse pate, as a poaching liquid for fruit will change perceptions.

So is having recipes created by a famous chef. But convincing cooks around Sandeman's home in Oporto, Portugal, required psychology. For the cook curious about caramelised port wine flan with lemon or breast of duck with port and mango, recipes are available from Annie Chiu of Seagrams Hong Kong. Tel, 2376-1768; fax, 2376-1410. And while we're on the Portuguese theme. Albertina Rosario is over the moon over a pot of stew. Mrs Rosario grabbed top honours in the fifth session of the Macau Gourmet Festival, a monthly cooking contest. With the honour came money and a bear hug from guest judge, TV chef/ personality Martin Yan.

Eight contestants competed in the cook-off, sponsored by the Hotel Lisboa. This month's recipe was tacho, a Macanese stew of preserved meats, sausage and vegetables.

The winning recipe will go on the menu of two hotel restaurants. The competition was the idea of hotel owner Alan Ho, who was looking for authentic recipes that spotlighted Macanese cuisine, a culinary tradition which is fading as fast as the enclave is growing.