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SCMP Reporter

AFTER its recent restructuring, Christian Dior is set to take Hong Kong by storm with its latest collection of women's wear.

  Last month, Christian Dior Hong Kong was set up as a joint venture between Christian Dior (Far East) and Jardine Matheson, part of a regional reorganisation which aims to increase the presence of the brand in the Asia-Pacific area.

  The venture received a kick-start as a result of a dazzling new collection from designer Gianfranco Ferre.

  At its heart is a revival of the signature black-and-white hound's-tooth pattern that first appeared in the Cocotte suit created by Christian Dior in 1948.

 An entire group in the collection, entitled Diorissimo (the fragrance associated with the famous check), is devoted to black and white in multiple combinations, accented with the same red as the ribbon on the Diorissimo bottle.

   Just as Diorissimo is a scent for young women, so this section is full of youthful vitality.

  'It is a different kind of collection,' said Rachel Erler, the retail general manager.

   'It is young and fun this time and very 60s, with short A-line skirts and little jackets. It is a young, fun collection.'   She said that, for the show in Paris, all the music was rock 'n' roll from the 60s. This was also the theme for Dior's recent trunk show in Hong Kong, with props such as a Harley Davidson borrowed from Kenny B to complete the effect.

  'Overall, the customers went crazy over the black and white,' Ms Erler said.

   One customer was so taken with it that she ordered 12 pieces from this section alone.

  A strong showing of hound's-tooth in the black-and-white theme includes slim-fitting trousers and matching tunic or cinched-waist jacket, plus an outfit that incorporates a new twist on Ferre's famous organza blouse.

  'The interesting thing is that it is a very 60s look, in the sense that it is tight pants, but it has the Dior touch with this fabulous white organza blouse and this bustier vest in hound's-tooth fabric you wear over it,' Ms Erler said. 'It is very chic.'   Although the organza blouse is more suited for dressy occasions, the bustier can be worn over a T-shirt in daytime, making it a versatile ensemble.

  Also in black-and-white are three-piece skirt suits, small jackets teamed with long-fitted skirts that flare at the bottom, plus little waistcoats, bolero jackets and striped trousers.

     White-on-white is a summer must, while black is seen for both day and evening wear.

   'There is a little touch of red, as a trim on suits, handbags, shoes or hats,' Ms Erler said.

   'For example, he might have a hound's-tooth suit with a little red scarf.'   Another group in the Dior collection, Jockey, bursts with colours.

   Shiny fabrics also feature and bold checks make an appearance.

  Suits in this section often incorporate an element of fun, such as discreet arrow details around buttonholes or at the top of slits in skirts.

   Long, fitted jackets look especially elegant with cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves.

  There are also short jackets teamed with flared skirts, slim-fitting trousers worn with small scoop-necked waistcoats and dress/jacket ensembles, all bearing the hallmark of Ferre's impeccable cutting.

  The final group in the spring/summer collection is a return to natural tones of brown and beige, with a handful of prints, and this family also includes organza blouses.

     As always, Ferre has created a strong line of dresses for evening wear, in which crepe de Chine is mixed with swathes of gossamer-light chiffon to achieve a soft, floaty effect.

   Dominant colours are white, black and purple, plus a classic navy polka dot.



Dior salutes the past in latest collection