GOLDEN Thread (hung sam) is just about the most common local fish. It is easily recognisable by its pretty, pinkish, orange skin and lateral gold lines. Preserved vine leaves impart a fragrant, lemony, salty tang and are available from Oliver's or Seibu Coo. Leftover leaves keep well in the fridge and can be used for dolmas or wrapped around chicken breasts and grilled or barbecued. This recipe for parsley and olive salad is a version of Gay Bilson's from Berowra Waters Inn, near Sydney. It is absolutely delicious - intense and salty. GOLDEN THREAD IN VINE LEAVES WITH PARSLEY AND OLIVE SALAD Serves four * 4 golden thread fish * olive oil, black pepper * about 12 preserved vine leaves Parsley and olive salad * 50g black olives * 2 anchovies finely chopped * 4 tbsp olive oil * 1 tbsp small capers * grated rind of ? lemon * 1 tbsp lemon juice * 50g parsley, roughly chopped * black pepper The fishmonger will gut and scale the fish. Cut 3 diagonal slits on each side of the fish and marinate in the olive oil and black pepper for 30 minutes. Rinse the excess brine from the vine leaves, dry and wrap each fish in about 3 leaves. Brush with olive oil and grill under a medium flame or bake in a very hot oven until the fish is just cooked through and the leaves slightly charred. The fish is also very good barbecued. To make the salad, use the shrivelled black or calamata olives from Oliver's or Seibu Coo. Tinned olives in brine are too tasteless for this dish. Remove the stones from the olives and roughly chop the flesh. Add the anchovies to the oil and mash with the back of a spoon. Toss all the ingredients together and serve with the fish. The fish and parsley salad makes a good starter or light meal, otherwise serve it with some sauteed potatoes for a more substantial dish.