Slow, sexy secrets of the Umbrian kitchen
Fertile lands of central Italy are famous for seasonal flavours and the simplicity of its cuisine, while boasting the cultural and historic treasures of the Western world, writes Debbie Oakes
Called the "Green heart of Italy", the Apennine Mountains to the north of landlocked Umbria roll quietly down into verdant hills topped by medieval villages. The mysterious Etruscans first groomed and farmed these fertile lands three millennia ago and, through the long ages, farmers have been rewarded with an abundance of seasonal flavours. Brazen tomatoes that grasp your tongue like a tempestuous lover, and seasoned cheeses and truffles whose earthy musky savours should be rated with an X. This is a land where pasta must be rolled by hand; ancient olive groves flirt with the sun; and saucy yellow sunflowers dance can-can with the summer breeze. If you have time to look up from your plate in Umbria, you will notice the artistic, cultural, architectural and historic treasures of the Western world.
Seasonal produce prepared with pots of passion and tempered with simplicity is the magic ingredient Umbrian cooks from mama to Michelin-star chef add to every dish. Robust flavours need little teasing to be coaxed from the freshest of ingredients. A dash of salt, a twist of pepper, splash of wine, and where would we be without the superlative virginal queen-of-green herself - cold pressed extra-virgin olive oil? With acidity as low as 0.01 per cent, Umbrian olio is the highest quality - pure, unrefined, unadulterated by heat or chemicals - with a table colour from autumn gold to bright spring green.
Umbria is the slow food, green-heart of Italy, so head off the beaten track to sample the authentic fare synonymous with the province. "When the produce is fresh, the flavours speak their own language," chef Massimo, of eponymously named fish restaurant Da Massimo, tells me. "And the simplicity of our dishes is the best way to highlight the natural taste of prime quality ingredients."
But fish? Not the first thing that springs to mind when contemplating typical Umbrian cuisine but, in fact, Umbria's Trasimeno teems with sweet water fish. Surrounded by hills, rolling countryside rich in olives, vineyards and local vegetables, it lies between the cities of Perugia, Assisi and Orvieto, ensuring the regional cuisine is as diverse as the landscape.
Da Massimo Ristorante is perched in a small hill-top village called San Feliciano with spectacular views over Lake Trasimeno. At lunch, magnificent head waiter Mauritzio, suggests primo piatto of Trasimeno Rissoto. The portion is generous as it is delicious - supple grains of rice laced with perch and base of tomato - fulfilling yet light. "Wait just a secondo," I nearly cry as three secondo piatto arrive. Firm, white, meaty strips of perch lightly crumbed, drizzled with olive oil and grilled on skewers over an open fire. Then Spiedino di capitone, moist, meaty and sweet. "Thank God I didn't know that was eel before I ate it," my companion mutters. But I love it. Filetto di pesico lightly battered and salted, shallow-fried strips of tasty perch complete pranzo. All washed down with the crispiest whitest Umbrian white, of course.
"Head to Citta della Pieve," advises Emma Cornish, padrone of the glorious inn, Villa leMura. "At Ristorante Silvana, they cook incredible produce right in front of you on the braccia-open fire."