That's the spirit

"We're very proud of our Cognacs - we like to think of them as haute couture," says Patrice Piveteau, deputy managing director and Frapin Cognac cellar master at Domaine Château de Fontpinot, deep in the heart of Cognac country.

Frapin is the only Cognac to have ever received the much coveted title of best spirit in the world for its Multimillésime label, but is little known outside its circle of connoisseurs.

Piveteau says that Frapin is "aimed at a discerning clientele". The château produces a line of unique luxury Cognacs (1,888 bottles in each series), featuring a high proportion of the rare folle-blanche grape, blending reserves dating back to 1860.

In a bottle created by the Cristallerie Royale de Champagne, topped by a 24ct gold stopper, Frapin Cuvée 1888 has been described as "one of the rarest and most valuable Cognacs ever released" and is one of Gayot.com's top 10 Cognacs in the world.

Yet, think Cognac and you'll probably think of the big boys - Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Courvoisier and Martell. Dare to go under the radar and you might strike liquid gold. There are thousands of Cognacs, including some real gems well known to a discerning few that create a buzz wherever they appear. They are the boutique Cognacs and are quietly rocking the digestif world. Boutique Cognac is single estate, coming from vines where it is distilled rather than from all over the Cognac region. It is rare because output is small-scale.