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Tapping a liquid asset

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TASTE it, urges David Haines. 'We only brewed it last night.' In the Aberdeen warehouse that the newly established South China Brewing Company calls home, Haines casts bloodshot eyes over the test tube of golden liquid that will, in 12 days' time when the process is complete, become Hong Kong's first couture beer.

Haines has been working 14-hour days to perfect his beer. The launch of his Crooked Island ale tomorrow is the first of two births he expects this year. The second happens around October 25 - with the arrival of the Haines' first child. 'New company, new kid,' he says. And all just as he turns 30. 'The timing,' he adds, 'is perfect.' Haines says Crooked Island ale is the beer equivalent of fresh baked bread.

'You'll smell the hops,' he promises as he walks around a brewery filled with 15 ceiling-high shining metal vats. And you'll taste the heightened flavour of the light and crisp drink he describes as a cross between a pale ale and a lager.

Boutique beer, Haines says, is a speciality product Hong Kong is more than ready for. As the local beer market becomes more sophisticated, he says, there is a taste and a willingness to pay extra for something special - evidenced by the way premium labels ring up increasing sales.

Crooked Island ale and other beers that will come on line as the company expands, will not be pasteurised.

There will be no preservatives, but Haines promises that quality will not be compromised because of exposure to Hong Kong's heat. 'Beer's worst enemies are heat and light,' he notes, but says these won't be hurdles because his brews will be delivered by refrigerated trucks.

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