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Steak-out your territory

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THE question is simple: are steak houses passe? Yes, according to current restaurant thinking, which dismisses them as dreadfully stale and painfully Seventies.

But it's not so much the steak that is at issue as the heavy timber decor and staid image.

For in the wake of a new acceptance of red meat - perhaps as a backlash against the diet police - the current breed of international restaurateurs have set about redefining the grill room concept.

Hong Kong steak houses generally fall into two groups: those where the standard menu covers prawn cocktails, pepper steak and Black Forest gateaux, and the family-style American menu driven by nachos, corn-fed beef, buffalo chips and pecan pie.

Only one restaurant has taken a short cut to Nineties chic. The very European W's Entrecote in Times Square introduced Hong Kong to a rare phenomenon - a one-dish restaurant where size is the only thing that counts.

We sought out half a dozen grill rooms that were so proud of their steaks they staked their names on it.

The Steak House The Regent, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 2721-1211 Their stake: As high as the hotel which houses it. The restaurant should be absolutely five-star all the way. It is - almost.

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