NOW open for 10 weeks, Toochka's occupies the old premises of Lamma's notorious Corner Bar which was shut down by the licensing authorities about two years ago following complaints of drug abuse and noise nuisance. Perhaps as a consequence, it sells no alcohol although customers may bring their own and pay corkage ($4 per can, $8 per bottle).
The Indian restaurant is named after the young daughter of one of the partners, Moloy Munshi. They hope this will improve their chances of success as honouring the young lady in this way is considered good fung shui in Indian tradition, explains the other partner, Dave Wheelband.
Tootchka's offers an international menu, mixing Indian specialities with such perennials as chicken Kiev and Caesar salad. They also serve an English traditional breakfast all day, which includes some excellent Cumberland sausages.
Nonetheless, tandoor dishes feature prominently, and Tootchka's tandoor, a portable model specially imported from India, is treated in reverence. The vat-shaped oven is made of clay that has been packed inside a oil drum. This is traditionally fuelled with charcoal, but the ingenious Dave Wheelband has adapted it to burn bottled gas. A small amount of charcoal is added to infuse the meat with smoky flavour once the oven has reached the required temperature of between 300 and 350 degrees Celsius.
The theory behind the tandoori technique is to generate such a high temperature that the surface of the meat or bread is quickly sealed, ensuring that the inside remains moist.
Great care is taken with the oven. On delivery the interior is seasoned with a mixture of spinach, oil and jaggery (Indian rock sugar). This seals the inside surface of the oven and provides an initial flavouring.