JUST when you thought Karl Lagerfeld had no more rabbits to pull out of the hat, he springs another surprise - by taking the autumn and winter Chanel collection back to its roots of ease, comfort and restraint. 'I have taken things far enough at Chanel. Today, 10 years later, I am going back to the starting block,' Lagerfeld said. The result is pure Coco. Tweed suits with long jackets and simple buttons, or short jackets with fitted waists, are worn with skirts that cover the knee - a far cry from last season's slit mini skirts. A fitted tweed dress combines easily with a loose tweed jacket. 'Whether in a suit or in a dress plus jacket, this collection is classic and comfortable, both in terms of material and design,' said Cecilia Tsang, the advertising manager. Some jackets have slightly flared sleeves, while others sport the 'new' three-quarter-length sleeves. Another new element is back pockets. 'We have a cashmere coat with two big pockets at the back and there are some suits in the same design,' Ms Tsang said. Also proving that restraint does not have to exclude humour, many of the back slits on skirts or coats are buttoned up. Among the fabrics, checks and matte tweed reign supreme and Chanel also has something it calls fancy tweed in orange, purple and fuchsia, which also incorporates checks. A black tweed, meanwhile, is shot through with metallic thread. Basic styles are also interpreted in leather or brown suede, worn with a cream satin blouse. Short fitted cashmere knits come in pastel shades such as pink, blue or jacquard, with motifs of camellias, shoes or bows. These are worn over tricot shorts or flared skirts with layered flounces of black chiffon. 'This time, we are using warm colours like burgundy and you also see a lot of brown. And, of course, black is important in Chanel collections,' Ms Tsang said. Black is dominant in skirts and a variety of jersey dresses of simple design, usually collarless and sleeveless. 'We used quite a lot of these simple dresses inside jackets; you can just put a jacket on top of it or you can wear it on its own with some accessories as an elegant cocktail dress,' Ms Tsang said. For evening, chiffon is cut on the bias for long dresses with draped necklines that toy with transparency, in layered panels and flounces. Accessories put the emphasis on two-tone flat shoes and angular box bags, while jewellery is much reduced in size. 'We have tiny 10 cent-like earrings. We do not use long gold chains and belts that much and some of the cocktail dresses just have a satin belt with white camelia for decoration. It is simple,' Ms Tsang said.