MILAN is the first stop for the bi-annual migration of the fashion pack. It goes like this: Milan, Paris, London, New York. Those are the Big Four. It used to be the Big Five, but Japan ran out of money in the 1980s.
This season the Italians put their best fashion foot forward to reflect the classic and quirky elegance that has been all the rage for the past year.
Giorgio Armani and Gianni Versace remained pretty much true to form for Spring '96, Armani with his quietly elegant soft suitings and Versace with his signature wild body-hugging styles.
Chiara Boni had her femmes fatales prowling down the catwalk in sinister spandex and scary-looking cage skirts, accessorised with matching handguns. Relative newcomer Anna Molinari revealed a split personality with sharply cut shantung suits for day and ultra sheer slip-dresses for the night.
But the big guys did not steal all the thunder; some of the less famous and less fanciful designers were making their own waves on the runway.
Marina Spandafora, famous for her delicate knitwear, did not disappoint, with long Grecian-like cream-coloured tricot slip dresses and tunics that floated over diaphanous pleated skirts. Her dresses, also in a light-coloured, delicate weave echoed the clean-lined 1960s-inspired feeling, complete with wide deep-V collars and hip length belts. Evening wear focused on clinging long tube dresses with sheer mesh inserts that were definitely sexy, but unthinkable if you planned on wearing anything underneath.