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OBJECTIVELY rating Ruby Tuesday, which opened in Ocean Terminal in August, is no easy feat. The moment you see the balloons at the entrance, you wonder if you've stumbled into a new Dan Ryan's or a good rip-off. It's almost impossible not to compare the two.

It isn't a Dan Ryan's, but a similar idea and one which the management claims is 'typical of a classic American restaurant' in the ilk of the Hard Rock Cafe, Planet Hollywood and, of course, Dan Ryan's.

This is the first Ruby Tuesday to open in Hong Kong, with a second scheduled for Causeway Bay early next year. Jardine's has the Asia franchise for the chain that has more than 350 outlets in the United States.

The group opened in America in 1972 and, judging from its success and the warm reception other American restaurants have had in Hong Kong, there is every reason to believe it will slot into a niche that is not yet saturated.

The decor is not unlike Dan Ryan's, but is newer and smarter and there's no moosehead peering at you from the wall. The ambience is classic American, down to the dark green booths and balloons for kids.

American memorabilia, which is apparently collected by a team that does nothing but find it and travel the world hanging it, sets the pleasant, informal and undisputably American tone.

The restaurant is large and has ceiling-to-floor harbour views blocked only by gracious ocean liners berthed alongside.

The day I visited, the restaurant was being awarded Restaurant of the Month by the People Acting For A Smokeless Society. This was because Ruby Tuesday has a non-smoking section and, I must say, it was pleasantly smoke-free.

The menu is predictable, but it does the great American staples and does them well: burgers, prime rib, baby back ribs, skins, and other goodies that keep the nation fat and happy.

The ex-chef of China Jump is the kitchen manager and he's been to head office in the US to learn how to make nachos, shrimp quesadilla and other ethnic dishes.

My companion and I were heavy on starters; we decided that if we were to rate it then we had to sample the super nachos ($48), loaded potato skins ($48) and a salad.

The skins had lots of filling, generous lashing of bacon and cheese, and were quite delicious.

The nachos were crispy and fresh, beautifully presented and garnished with a spicy salsa dip. The seafood salad looks great, has several juicy prawns in it, two slices of smoked salmon and lots of lettuce. Not bad for $95, but the dressing was disappointing. The Thousand Island was straight out of a bottle and the honey-mustard dressing was a downright flop. It tastes like heavy mayonnaise with a hint of flavouring.

The ribs and chicken platter ($168) consists of ribs that were a little bland and chargrilled Smokey Mountain chicken that was tasty but not memorable.

The baked lasagna ($88) has a very tomatoey base that tends to dominate other flavours. The salad bar reminded me of the kind found in pizza parlours. I fully expected to see people stacking their plates in the famous 'leaning tower' fashion. Management defended heavy mayonnaise dressings and gooey sweet fruit salads saying they are what people want.

Well each to his own, but don't tell me anybody likes the rock-hard croutons.

The desserts were to die for. The classic carrot cake with cream ($36) is all you ever wanted carrot cake to be while the house special, Ruby Tuesday Strawberry Tellcake ($55 for two to share or $75 for four), is rather like a trifle from heaven drenched in strawberry mousse, ice-cream and cream.

The service was excellent and friendly, but not obtrusive. Two things to be aware of when going to Ruby Tuesday: one, there is no liquor licence yet (you can take your own) and, two, the toilets are a problem.

 It's a long and complicated story, but suffice to say that for the foreseeable future, despite management's best intention to remedy the situation, you have to use the public toilets down the drag from Ruby Tuesday.

A really over-the-top calories-to-the wind meal for two came to a very reasonable $679, including service.

Ruby Tuesday, Shop 283, Deck 2, Ocean Terminal. Hours: 11.30am-11.30pm. Tel: 2376-3122. Overall: *** Value: ***1/2 



Another course in Americana