For Allan Chiu, Hong Kong's latest fashion darling, everything old is new again. His latest collection for autumn-winter 1995-96 wowed both the public and the Retro-weary fashion press alike. His clothes have a sort of sexy 'grandma' look to them. Serious tweed dresses get a lift from a floral inset at the thigh. Everyday knits, even cardigans, are reworked in a super snug rib-stitch that hugs the bodice or are punctuated by fur collars and cuffs. But the real news is the palette. While everyone is screaming 'colour is back' with cartoon brights and eye-popping pastels, Chiu holds his own somehwere in between. Off colours such as chartreuse and teal, mustard and maroon clash against true reds and greens to great effect. It sounds like a Technicolor yawn, but it works.