appConfigEntityId

bodyType

customContents

entityId

entityUuid

articlePageQuery

filter

article

articleBaseAdvertisingInfoArticle

articleListArticle

articleSeoArticle

hooksArticleAcknowledgementGateOverlayArticle

hooksTrackPageViewArticle

hooksContentInterestArticle

articleLinkingDataContent

hooksAmpRedirectArticle

articleSchemaContent

hooksArticlePageAdvertisementConfigArticle

liveArticle

appConfig

advertZone

sentiment

contentLock

topics

types

sections

paywallTypes

createdDate

publishedDate

sponsorType

urlAlias

moreOnThisArticles

sectionsV2

commentCount

authorLocations

authors

corrections

displaySlideShow

multimediaEmbed

printHeadline

seriesContainer

articleSpeeches

socialHeadline

headline

images

flag

firstTopic

glossary

flattenTypeIds

image

relatedLinks

relatedNewsletters

__typename

sponsor

pdfFiles

seriesReverseOrder

series

disableOffPlatformContent

published

updatedDate

summary

subHeadline

body

keywords

readingTime

customTimezone

liveContents

json

SCMP Reporter

WHILE the English fry bacon and eggs and the Chinese devour dim sum, the Vietnamese sip on steaming bowls of pho for breakfast.

  Pho is a noodle soup eaten throughout Vietnam but it is cherished in Hanoi where it provides early morning comfort from cold winter winds.

  Residents zealously insist that Hanoi's pho is the best and some refuse to eat the dish elsewhere.

  Pho (pronounced 'fir') is made by taking a bowl of heated fresh rice noodles, adding roasted chicken, simmered beef brisket or thin slices of sirloin. A garnish of chopped spring onions, basil, coriander and mint is sprinkled liberally over the top.

  Finally, rich simmering stock flavoured with roasted garlic and ginger is ladled into the bowl. A choice of chili, fish sauce and lime juice are provided as condiments.

  Causeway Bay on a Friday night has little in common with the fading French colonial elegance of Hanoi. But at Pho Hoa on Pak Sha Road those in need of sanctuary from shopping can drop in for a taste of Vietnam.

  All marble tables, polished wood and textured wallpaper, the restaurant, one in a chain of four, looks grand from the street but is business-like, clean and functional within.

  Colourful prints of steam trains, presumably Vietnamese, adorn the walls along with a bewildering collection of signs.

    Service is brusque. When asked for his recommendations, the waiter said 'just eat soup'.

  Seventeen varieties of pho are available. They come in four different size bowls; mini, small, large and jumbo. Mini is sufficient for one, jumbo arrives in an enormous white porcelain bath and will easily feed 10.

  Pho ingredients are beef brisket, diced beef tendon, tripe, shank, cooked beef back and beef balls. These are not ingredients which benefit from literal translations by menu writers.

  Those diners who have had enough of beef parts can try shredded chicken, Vietnamese pork roll or sliced fish fillet with their broth. Six varieties are available without noodles.

  Side dishes include an odd concoction billed as 'meat pie'; rice vermicelli slices of beef and tiny dried prawns bound together with beaten egg and chopped coriander.

  This should be avoided by those squeamish about unidentifiable, chewy ingredients.

  Prawns on sugar cane arrived looking like little pink rugby balls. A minced prawn paste wrapped around a stick of sugar cane, steamed to a rubbery consistency. They remained on the plate following cursory tastings by four diners willing to try almost anything.

  The Vietnamese big head fresh water prawns with garlic were largely ruined by the rancid garlic butter in which they were bathed. Disappointing for the menu's most expensive dish.

  The Vietnamese skewered roast combo contained slices of beef, chicken and pork threaded, sate style, on to bamboo skewers. The beef was rare and tender, the pork tough and the chicken underdone.

  For refreshment the thirsty can drink fresh young coconut juice, sweetened lime juice with ice or a Paradiser - a tropical fruit milk shake.

  For caffeine addicts Pho Hoa provides exceptionally good coffee, served, according to tradition, with thick sweet condensed milk. No alcohol is served.

  In value for money terms Pho Hoa is hard to beat, especially if you follow the waiter's advice and just try the soup.

  A bowl of pho, a cup of coffee and a fresh fruit drink will cost $51. Take the waiter's advice and 'just eat soup'. Pho Hoa, 16 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay. Tel: 2301-4646. Hours: 7.30am to midnight 



What they like to wake up to in Vietnam