HOW do you pronounce gewurztraminer? If you are a proper wine buff, chances are you say 'U-ghal'. Johnny Hugel, the formidable white winemaker of Alsace, is the premier champion in the world of this noble, often overlooked grape. His name is synonymous with the varietal.
The gewurztraminer captures the character of Alsace; it's emotional, friendly and warm of character, but can be a little overwhelming. People who are becoming weary of the endless tidal wave of chardonnay and its little brother fume blanc (more properly known as cabernet sauvignon) are turning to the richness of the old Central European grape as a tasty alternative.
Not everyone likes it. Those who do are fortunate.
Gewurztraminer is by far the best-known grape of Alsace. This much-contested corner of Europe is again part of France, but remains strongly linked culturally to the German winelands across the Rhine. The wines of Alsace are close cousins to the whites on the far side of the river.
In German, gewurz means spice and when you take a deep sniff of a freshly-opened bottle of Hugel's wines, it's easy to tell why. The aroma can be strong to overpowering.
The taste as well as the smell is very flowery. It's like a rich perfume.