Wine: Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne Grape: Chardonnay Region: Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy, France Vintage: 1992 CHARDONNAY is the world's most popular white wine. For everyday drinking, Chardonnays from Australia, New Zealand or California offer excellent value for money when compared to the wines of Burgundy. Unfortunately for the Burgundians, no other region can produce wine as complex or as magnificent as Montrachet, Chevalier Montrachet or Corton Charlemagne.

Louis Latour is the largest producer of white Burgundy. A good deal of Latour's wine is made from juice or grapes purchased from growers. This is definitely not the case with Corton Charlemagne. Latour's own vineyard on a gently sloping hill near the village of Aloxe-Corton produces an average of 12,000 cases a year. Corton Charlemagne at its best is a fabulous wine. The 1992 is glorious; rich and powerful with layers of concentrated fruit. Once opened, Corton Charlemagne must be allowed to breathe in the glass for at least 10 minutes in order for the flavours to develop. Although drinkable now, this wine will improve over the next 10 years. It is excellent with snake dishes or with crispy-skinned chicken.

Where To Buy: Direct from the importer, Remy Fine Wines (Tel: 2523-5904), at $748 per bottle or $698 per bottle by the case. Despite its price, this wine is in short supply.