The wine world has a new messiah. His name is Tim Hanni and he comes to spread the good news that yes, it is actually OK to enjoy a nice Liebfraumilch with your shoulder of lamb or a rich Bordeaux with your Dover sole.
For Mr Hanni, a master of wine at California's Beringer Vineyards and guest speaker at last week's Wines of the Pacific Rim (WINPAC) festival, the old rules of food and wine pairing which have existed as long as anyone can remember, have simply ceased to exist.
'One of the great failings in food and wine pairing is that we discuss what wines should go with which food with the assumption that everyone will reach the same conclusion or should share the opinion of an 'expert',' he explains.
'We rarely make allowances for the fact that everyone has their own opinion and are afraid to order what they really enjoy drinking as opposed to what they think they ought to drink.' For the last seven years, Mr Hanni has taught, and practised, the principles that the depth and strength of wine are affected by the flavours of food.
'The sense of taste is comprised of five sensations: sweetness; sourness; bitterness, saltiness and a fifth, umani, which is associated with a savoury characteristic in food, especially Asian cuisines,' he says. 'Basically sweet food will increase the perception of sourness, bitterness and astringency of the wine and make it appear stronger.
'Foods with high amounts of acidity or sourness will make the wine taste richer and more mellow. The addition of salt to food, especially to sauces and other foods high in umani can tone down bitterness and astringency of some wines, making some appear sweeter.' Using these principles, Mr Hanni says that anyone can drink their favourite tipple with a meal - and have it perfectly matched - by knowing beforehand how their food will affect it.
Meat, poultry and fish cooked on their own are all neutral foods so concentrate on the sauces and condiments which will accompany it. If you like your wine dry and strong, go for a dish with a hoisin sauce. If you prefer a mellow accompaniment to your meal, go for a fish with a lemon sauce.
