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Wine

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Wine: Antcliff's Chase Pinot Noir Grape: Pinot Noir Region: Victoria, Australia Vintage: 1992 The Pinot Noir grape is notoriously difficult to handle. When everything goes well Pinot Noir can be absolutely gorgeous but many versions are pale, insipid fruitless wines. Burgundy consistently makes the finest Pinot Noirs but occasionally the New World can turn up a stunning example, as in the case of Antcliff's Chase.

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Situated 600 metres above sea level in the Strathbogie Ranges, 160 kilometres northeast of Melbourne, Antcliff's Chase is a small, family-owned enterprise. It takes its name from one of the owners, winemaker Chris Antcliff Bennett.

In the winery, the philosophy is one of minimal intervention. Simple wine-making techniques are used along with best-quality oak barrels.

Antcliff's Chase Pinot Noir 1992 has an aroma of plums and cherries. On the palate there are complex, earthy and gamey flavours. The wine has lovely fruit and is extremely long. Winner of a Gold Medal at Winpac 1996, this is a rare wine equal to the best of Burgundy.

Where To Buy: Direct from the importer Kedington (tel: 2898-9323) at $194 per bottle.

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