This is a fish soup in the manner of a bouillabaisse. Use local, market fish, choosing two or three varieties of relatively firm, white-fleshed fish like golden thread (hung sam), garoupa (shek paan), and various breams (lap yu). Avoid the dark-fleshed oily fish and don't bother making this with frozen fish. FISH SOUP FEAST For 4 to 6 people * 700g (generous catty) fish fillet or fish steak * 2 crabs (about 1/2 catty each) * 600g (a catty) medium prawns Fish Stock * 1 onion, 1 carrot sliced * 1 celery stalk sliced, 2 bay leaves * Fish heads and bones Soup base * 1 large onion, finely sliced * 1 leek, finely sliced * 1 celery stalk, finely sliced * 4 cloves garlic, chopped * 1 tin tomatoes * 1 tbs tomato paste * About 15 strands saffron * Thyme or herbes en Provence * 1/2 bottle white wine * Olive oil for cooking, salt and pepper * Parsley finely chopped Cut the fish into even, largish pieces. Marinate in a little olive oil and salt and pepper for an hour or so. Break each crab into nine pieces (the carapace is the 9th piece). Make the fish stock. Saute the vegetables slowly in olive oil for a few minutes. Add the bay leaves and about 21/2 litres of water. Bring to the boil, add the fish heads, bones and crab carapace. Simmer for 20 minutes. If you don't have enough heads and bone for the stock, include some small inexpensive fish. The fish stock at this stage will be rather bland as there are still lots of ingredients to go in. In a large pot, saute onions, leeks, celery and garlic with olive oil until soft and lightly coloured. Add the next five ingredients, including the wine. Strain the fish stock into the pot, squeezing out the goodness from the bones and vegetables. Simmer for 30 minutes. You can prepare the stock in advance. When ready to serve, bring soup to a gentle boil, add the crab, prawns and fish. Simmer for five to 10 minutes. Do not over-cook the fish. Add plenty of chopped parsley, adjust the salt and pepper. Arrange the fish on a large platter and serve soup separately.