Anyone who can say 'Schnapps Slurpy' three times in a row after drinking three Schnapps Slurpies, declares former reporter Tad Stoner, 'deserves to get one free Schnapps Snur ... er, Shlox Slap ... um, a free drink'. Tad and Iris Stoner are perhaps the only husband-and-wife journalists who both gave up the Fifth Estate to become publicans. And while being fast on one's feet and fast with the retort is no guarantee of restaurant success, the Stoners seem to have made it on Peng Chau. Peng Chau has no paucity of eating places, both Chinese and European. But, except for the jetty-setters on the weekends, the island still has a remote feel. Streets wind up hills, paths lead around the harbour, and it is so environmentally 'backward' that at night one can see the stars. The Stoners lived on Peng Chau while working as writers. Then Stoner decided a change was necessary. He knew a chef, knew a location near his home, inherited a name, The Forest, and soon was in business. And business is good: on weekends, the 60-odd outdoor seats on the harbour fill up early, with boatloads coming on the hourly trip. Weekdays, Discovery Bay residents turn up, either in their own craft or the hourly shuttle. Some enjoy sitting inside, as Stoner presides behind the bar, doing his Cheers act with cocktails and patter. Most prefer sitting outside which, even on the steamiest nights, has a beguiling atmosphere. We chose to dine alfresco, despite certain hazards. One was mosquitoes (the restaurant supplied roll-on repellent on request). Another was the lack of breezes, even at night. On the other hand, we had a gorgeous view of the sky, the vessels plying the sea, the glowing lights of Disco Bay. But on to the drinking and eating. Besides the cocktails, The Forest has three wines, all from Chile (excellent value by the glass at $30), Bourbon, whiskey and vodka and a great selection of beers. Plus three schnapps and, for the summer, Schnapps Slurpies at $25 each. The menu is eclectic: several Indian curries, a Greek salad, steak, lamb, chicken and a curious dish called grilled fish with tomato fondant (fondant is a sugar coating, which sounds inappropriate). In deference to their first chef, a few mild Indian dishes remain on the menu. The vegetable samosas were beyond reproach. Three appeared: crispy dough wrapped around diced peas and tomatoes, dipped not into the usual green sauce but a mild chilli sauce. The other was a main course, baby lamb cutlet. This is New Zealand boneless lamb in a thick rich gravy, served with rice and a huge tomato and lettuce salad. The Forest believes big is better. These seem to be the biggest portions east of Dan Ryan's, so parties are advised to share. The three of us shared an order of potato skins. There were four on the plate, and nobody could figure out the fraction to make four go into three. The toasted skins were filled with bacon, cheese and dollops of sour cream. Then came a Greek salad. The Danish feta cheese was in abundance, but only a few black olives, along with tomato and lettuce. It looked quickly thrown together, although the olive oil gave it some flavour. The packaged Italian dressing, like the fork with the airline logo, seemed to have come from an economy-class flight. No complaints about the steak, again from New Zealand. It was ordered medium-rare, and had a deliciously grilled taste, along with a home-made pepper sauce. One has the option of mushroom sauce. The pasta was very rich indeed: fettucine with bits of Norwegian smoked salmon in a cream sauce. It was tasty but perhaps too filling. Two of the four desserts are home-made. The apple crumble was boring. No cinnamon, no brown sugar, just apple pieces and, well, crumble. Our English guest found the bread-and-butter pudding adequate. It was not to this American's taste. In all, The Forest provides a menu and preparation which may not stand up to five-star critiques - but then it is not meant to be. The service is informal, the price is reasonable ($444 for the food alone), and the fun of having hosts like the Stoners makes this a 'personal'restaurant. As to the sky and the sea, that is thrown in free, a gratuity from a still beneficent God. THE FOREST BAR & RESTAURANT Ground floor, 38C Wing Hing Street, Peng Chau Island; Tel: 2983-8837; Open: Noon-1am (closing time approximate; kitchen closes at 10pm)