It is ironic that Mauritius is best known for the dodo, a rather stupid-looking bird which became extinct three centuries ago, because the atmosphere on the island nowadays is one of regeneration and growth - of its environment, economy and culture. Mauritius may have suffered at the hands of the early colonialists, but the present population recognises the value of this tropical gem in the southwest Indian Ocean. In fact, the rich cultural mix of its people is one of the island's main attractions, along with its inviting beaches and mountain views.
Being so small (just 45 by 55 kilometres) and so far from anywhere else, the island was all but ignored by sea traders like the Arabs, Portuguese and Dutch. Though the Dutch occupied only the southeast corner on and off for 100 years (from 1600-1700), they played a great part in shaping its history. They named it Mauritius after Prince Maurice de Nassau, and introduced sugar cane, which still covers the island like a deep-pile emerald carpet. They also introduced monkeys and dogs, predators which annihilated the dodo, a bird that had lost its power of flight since it had no natural predators.
The Dutch were followed by the French and then the British, and though the country has been independent since 1968, the changes of colonial powers have left a confusion about language that may still baffle visitors. Though English is the official language of the country, most of the population seem more comfortable talking in French or Creole, a kind of pidgin French. Many of the population speak all three fluently, as well as the tongue of their forefathers, such as Hindi or Cantonese. Indians who were brought to work the sugar fields after the abolition of slavery constitute over half the current population, the rest being formed of Creole, Franco-Mauritians and Chinese.
For most visitors, however, it is the island's beaches and water sports that hold more interest than its history, and for such a small island, the range of choices is vast. The island is almost entirely ringed by a coral reef, creating safe lagoons that are ideal for observing fish and corals, though some are too shallow to enjoy swimming. Some of the best days are situated along the north and east coasts, where many of the main hotels are also wisely located. Grand Baie, Trou Aux Biches (north) and Ile Aux Cerfs (east) all look out over limpid waters of a turquoise tint, with expensive yachts and glass-bottom boats adding a splash of white to the scene.
While many tourists are content to let the day trickle by as they toast themselves on the powder-soft beaches, others seek more action, and are well-catered for on Mauritius. Pedalos, kayaks, sailboats and catamarans offer peaceful alternatives; jet-skis and speedboats towing water-skiers or paragliders offer thrills and spills; snorkelling and diving open the door to a colourful world of brilliant-coloured fish and corals. The island even has novel attractions like an 'Undersea Walk' - a simple helmet and airline which enables everyone, even those for whom scuba diving is too much trouble, to discover the magical world below the waves.
With such a variety of beach and water activities, it's not surprising that some visitors never get to see the interior of the island. Yet this is a shame, since it is the distinctive landscapes and laid-back villages that give the island its special feel. Though its highest point is only 827 metres (Piton de la Petite Riviere Loire in the southwest), chains of rugged mountains are visible all round the island, some with dramatic features, such as Pieter Both mountain, the country's second-highest at 823 metres, near Port Louis, which has a huge boulder balancing precariously on its peak.
Volcanic earth is extremely fertile, and apart from the mountain peaks and a few protected forest areas, the rest of the island is intensely cultivated, with sugar cane occupying more than 90 per cent of the available planting space, and tea, pineapples, tomatoes and corn filling in a few corners. Huge piles of black boulders sit in the middle, or round the edge of sugar fields, some looking like Mayan temples, and all testifying to the backbreaking work of clearing the fields for planting. When in flower (June/July), the sugar cane plant displays a delicate beauty, especially at dawn and dusk when the sun shimmers through its silvery tufts.