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A steaming good time in sleepy Tuen Mun

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They don't call Tuen Mun 'the Paris of northwest New Territories' for nothing. But rare is the epicure who cannot declare: 'Between Siu Lam and Yuen Long, Tuen Mun is a real oasis.' Or so I heard . . . For when the crunch came - when I actually had to go to Tuen Mun for a concert and had a few hours to kill - it was necessary to call a good contact to find where to eat.

My contact, a criminal lawyer, makes many a visit to Tuen Mun, for obvious reasons. According to his clients, Riverview is the place to eat.

There is no river in sight, but the steamboat is a good excuse for the name. And in this, they excel.

The steamboat is that pot of boiling stock on the table into which one dunks meat and seafood, fondue-style, along with lettuce, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and other vegetables (diners usually order a variety of meats, but some vegetables are supplied free).

A few minutes later, one uses a ladle to spoon out the cooked meats and vegetables, which are dipped into a variety of sauces.

While this may be fun, the bill usually adds up faster than the thin beef can be cooked.

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