There are three secrets to the fascinating Matsubishi Japanese Restaurant: first, nearly all the locals go to one end of the corridor, cloistering themselves inside the teppanyaki rooms where they can 'ooh' and 'ahh' to their hearts' content. But it isn't the real Matsubishi.
The Japanese get right into the swing of things. On the other end of the corridor, by the brightly lit teppanyaki-sushi bar, are about six tables. Save for the paintings, the room doesn't have much personality. But that's where the great food comes in.
Secret two isn't so appetising: some of the best dishes - and one worst - is written only in Japanese on long table-top scrolls.
Among the best are the charcoal-grilled scallops and kawalee eeya yako, which must really be ordered. The latter (with no real English translation) is country-style raw bean curd, with a julienne of vegetables that breathes health and freshness.
The 'worst' is whale meat ($400), and it should be off the menu: the Agriculture and Fisheries Department has banned its import.
Secret three is more appetising, but less easy to accept. Avoid the pricey ($300-$400) sashimi and sushi, and make a full party of the smaller, most interesting concoctions in the early pages of the menu.