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Wholesome, fiery Taiwanese fare

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SCMP Reporter

The welcoming jingle of bells that dangle from the hems of your waitress' traditional costume is a sure sign you are in for a novel night out.

A hop, skip and a jump from Times Square in the heart of Causeway Bay, and you will find yourself confronted by a neon-lit sign that beckons the peckish into the Forever Green Taiwanese Restaurant.

The glaring lights and red astroturf are more reminiscent of a Californian eatery or trendy pizzeria. But looks can be deceptive.

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There is nothing nouvelle or the least bit western about this place. Wholesome and traditional Taiwanese cuisine is the surprise inside the packaging.

A reservation is an absolute necessity. Even on a Tuesday night this place was packed to the rafters. We were seated conspicuously at a marble-topped table on wonderfully hefty wooden chairs, bang in the middle of the restaurant, which offered a prime position to take in the frenetic pace and cacophonous ambience. But this, as any Taiwanese would be at pains to stress, is no Chinese restaurant.

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A perusal of the menu reveals a range of traditional Taiwanese as well as Japanese sashimi dishes that might bewilder the non-connoisseur. However, they are clearly laid out and labelled in Chinese, Japanese and English and there is also a selection of appetising photos to help you imagine the dishes.

Handmade southern Taiwanese noodles in small china bowls were the first dish to which we turned our attention. The egg noodles sat in a light soup, topped off with minced beef steeped in garlic and chilli - an oriental spaghetti bolognaise if you like. The waiter was very keen for us to try this dish. It was delicious.

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