Hong Kong has been invaded by sushi. The fashion is especially prevalent among Hong Kong's youth who flock to the discount sushi bars springing up all over the city.
Japan has been playing a leading role in influencing the tastes and ideas of Hong Kong youth for some time, quietly usurping the more distant, alien and non-Asian trends from Europe and North America.
Sushi is also attractive because of its sophisticated, expensive image. The preparation of good quality sushi in Japan is considered an art form.
Shokunin - sushi chefs - serve an apprenticeship of at least seven years before they are considered competent. In Hong Kong such skilful practitioners are only found in expensive Japanese restaurants and exclusive hotels.
The sushi served at the Genroku, Genki and Genwa chains is not prepared by shokunin but by employees with, at best, a very basic training in culinary technique. The reasons for this are obviously economic. Sushi entrepreneurs rely on the low cost of their product, together with the image inherited from the upmarket origin to produce their profit. And profits must be good because these three companies are all preparing to open more outlets.
Another factor in sushi's success is a perception that it is good for health. The Japanese diet is low in cholesterol and heart disease is uncommon. The Japanese take pride in their fastidious cleanliness and the quality and freshness of their food. But in August, this confidence was dealt a deadly blow. The outbreak of food poisoning which killed 11 and produced dangerous symptoms in 9,400 has left concerned parents unsure how best to feed their children safely.
The culprit, E-coli 0157:H7 colon bacillus bacteria, has made its home in a variety of food stuffs.
