The Baron's Table Holiday Inn Golden Mile 46-52 Nathan Road TST Kowloon Tel: 369-3111 ext 1309 HOT flushes have nothing to do with age and everything to do with eating fondue. The flushed face, the beaded forehead, the pots gurgling away like mini-volcanoes create a mood. Add copious amounts of beer and wine, and the sport-coats come off and everyone shifts down into low-gear. Like anniversaries and Valentine's Day, eating fondue is usually an annual affair. Those ''first time I ate fondue'' stories give your age away. Trying the fondue promotion at the Baron's Table this month gave an excuse to meet in the cosy bar and nibble the terrific chewy pretzels and bread-sticks as well as hoist a few pre-dinner steins. The Swiss would be proud. The German-inspired Baron's Table produces a first-rate Swiss fondue with service to match. The savouries include cheese ($168), beef and seafood ($199) and Chinese ($190). Though no one could fault the seafood style with its delicate dill-flavoured broth or the Chinese-inspired one with its platter of beef, veal and pork filets and mild beef broth, the hands-down favourites were beef and cheese. The majority of fondue veterans agreed, it was more a case of habit and familiarity than objectivity. The combination of Gruyere and Emmenthaler cheeses gave this particular fondue its characteristic richness and the generous amount of Kirsch (cherry eau de vie) necessary to cut it. Whole wheat bread cubes were a welcome addition to the traditional whiteand far sturdier in surviving the dunk process. The shot-glasses of icy Kirsch that accompanied each order of cheese fondue were a delightful touch. The waiters demonstrated an understanding of the phrase ''to linger''. No plate or glass was whisked away. Only an Olympic eater could go dancing after a fondue meal and feel comfortable. But despite moans of overdoing it, everyone volunteered to test the chocolate fondue ($85). Three types arrived. The white chocolate was judged too thin. The jury couldn't decide if the milk chocolate had better viscosity than the semi-sweet. But no one quit sampling. Spooning through a vat of melted chocolate for the sake of scientific research was sheer pleasure. For those who need an excuse to indulge, it comes with fresh fruit. Dinner for two, with wine, is about $650.