The last Gurkha regiment has marched away from Borneo Lines, pipes wailing and flags flying, but their fiery culinary legacy remains in the northwest New Territories.
On the main street of Kam Tin, beneath a sign bearing the Brigade of Gurkhas' crossed kukri fighting knives, the Gurkha Restaurant still serves a vibrant chicken vindaloo.
Owner Mahmood Nasir has no plans to close the small, unpretentious restaurant that serves the spicy specialities of Nepal, India and Pakistan. This will come as good news to those who, during the past half-century that the Nepalese military units had a formidable fighting presence in the area, became accustomed to a good, honest curry.
The restaurant opened 20 years ago, serving not only the soldiers, who had restaurants on the army bases, but also the tailors, jewellers and other Nepalese civilians who moved to the area to service the needs of Gurkha units.
Like the soldiers, none of them earned much money, so prices had to be kept low where they remain.
There is nothing fancy about this establishment with its tile walls, linoleum floor and plain small tables. But it is clean and friendly, and you can get a fish korma for $36 accompanied by a well-chilled can of beer for $12.50.
About the most expensive item is the whole chicken cooked tandoori style ($60), sizzling with onion and herbs. A bowl of vegetable curry ($18) and mutton Madras ($32) are typical prices.