As for finding tasty pizza in Hong Kong that accurately reflects its Mediterranean origins, she generally snorts with derision.

So it came as a surprise when she gleefully revealed a pizzeria that not only came up to scratch but was a stone's throw from her own doorstep on Lamma Island.

Tucked away off Yung Shue Wan's Main Street, on the way to the beach, is Cafe Milano - a rather nondescript looking place squeezed in among knickknack shops and a grocery store.

The plastic chairs and table are hardly eye-catching but this cafe is definitely a case of not judging a book by its cover. Its down-to-earth surroundings make it an ideal rest stop on the way back from the beach.

Pizzas tend to fall into one of two categories: thick, with a soggy base and piled high with virtually every topping under the sun or, like Cafe Milano's, the thin variety, lightly coated with a tantalising assortment of Italian titbits.

We waited for the first to arrive - the Pizza No 7, fungi e prosciutto - chomping on garlic bread which was satisfyingly doughy and had a nice kick of garlic.

It was the perfect way to prepare for the pizza: a chewy base basted with tomato and topped with Mozzarella cheese and mushrooms sand draped with succulent pieces of Parma ham.

Paola, pizza slice in hand, wildly gesticulating in Italian fashion, squealed: 'Really, it's like tasting a piece of Italy.' Then, dropping her voice, she sai: 'Eh, you know, you can always tell good pizza from the base. In Rome they like it like this - thin.

'And the Parma ham must never be cooked with the pizza. It should be placed on the pizza last of all.' Next was Pizza No 4, the Romana, sprinkled with anchovies that melted in the mouth and were not too salty and capers to sharpen the dish's overall flavour.

'Very, very good,' said Paola, munching contentedly and lapsing into an uncharacteristic silence.

Milano pizzas come in small, medium and large; all are generous. Ask to see just how much you get for a better picture of what size to order. As a general rule, two medium-sized pizzas will easily fill three diners.

Oh, and don't forget to leave room for the tiramisu ($24). It's an extremely good attempt at the genuine article - light and creamy, and liberally coated with chocolate. Other pizzas include toppings such as Italian sausage, olives, chilli sausage, pineapple and squid.

Small versions range from $22 for a basic Margherita to $35 for a Marinara which includes clams, mussels, shrimps and squid. Medium pizzas cost $54 to $78 while large ones start at $80 and rise to a still-reasonable $110.

For those who fancy an alternative, Milano also serves spaghetti and penne with various sauces such as salmon and bolognese, and spinach lasagne ($32 to $36).

Round off the meal with a cappuccino ($14) or an espresso ($11) before catching the ferry.

One tip. As with any excursion to an outlying island, if you are making a special trip, phone ahead to check it is open in order to avoid disappointment.

Incidentally, if you live in the Yung Shue Wan area you can fax your order then arrange to pick it up (fax number 2900-8888).

Pizza Milano, Flat A, G/F, 2 Back Street, Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island. Tel: 298-4848. Open Mon 6pm-12pm, Tues-Sat noon-12pm, and Sun noon-10pm.