It is the best of thymes, it is the worst of thymes. It is, in fact, a tragic tale of two glass mall-walls.
They both have the name Grappa's, which most people fathom as a jolly restaurant in Pacific Place; although no one goes to it for real Italian food, the pastas and pizzas are passable, and the restaurant's namesake liqueurs can get you looped with a few libations.
This Grappa's has a glass-wall window through which you see and are seen. Waving to friends outside, inviting them in for a drink or three, observing the hustle and bustle of Pacific Place even after sundown is a Hong Kong diversion.
Now we come to the second glass wall, of another Grappa's, this one in another mall, in Ocean Centre. It is also - and this must be emphasised - under entirely different management and ownership.
The Kowloon Grappa's is also an entirely different kettle of minestrone, for sitting in this restaurant after sundown can be almost an appalling experience. In effect, one is not only not seen, but one prays for invisibility, just in case somebody passes by.
I did not know this Grappa's existed, but when a friend invited me to try it - she wanted an early meal before going to the Cultural Centre, and the place was convenient - I agreed. And regretted it.