Shinta, 1/F Kar Yau Building, 36-44 Queen's Road East. Tel: 527 8780. THERE is one dish that is truly outstanding at the Shinta Indonesian restaurant, and that is the beef rendang. There is nothing remotely gristly or chewy about the meat here, unlike some other venues in town (not to mention in Indonesia itself). The beef, laden with spices after a lengthy cooking time, is so tender it almost falls apart as soon as you stick yourfork into it. It is perhaps not surprising that the rendang should be so authentic, because the Shinta shares its premises with the Indonesia Club of Hongkong. Tradition is continued with the use of bamboo in the decor, the colourful batik table cloths, cushions and wall hangings . . . but stop there. The music is anything but the real McCoy: it is good old-fashioned Western pop or Richard Clayderman-style classics. Our suggestion that a recording of gamelan, Indonesian percussion orchestra music, might go down well was met with a bemused smile from the waiter. But who really cares about the decor if the food is good, especially when you are not paying through the nose? For the Shinta is nothing if not good value for money. If you want your dishes to arrive in sequence, Western-style, you'll have to order them separately. Service here is fast: almost before you've translated sambel goreng udang into fried shrimps in chilli, egg and coconut sauce, it has already landed on your table. If your tastes run to seafood, this isn't perhaps the best dish on the menu, for the tiny shrimp is virtually tasteless, but it's almost worth it for the rich sauce. A better bet is the bumbu bali udang, or large prawns in chilli sauce, but if you want to steer clear of these potentially dodgy creatures, the roasted fish wrapped in banana leaf is a winner being both tender and full of flavour. The satay, like the rendang, highlights the Shinta's use of good meat: again, the pieces of beef, pork and chicken are succulent. Although the menu lists satay in portions of a dozen skewers, the staff will oblige with half portions, or produce a mixed selection if you require. Anyone who has spent time in Indonesia will know of gado gado. Like all the best Indonesian food, it is basically street stall food, simple and filling. Again, the Shinta scores high marks for a good rendition of this traveller's standby. Slices of greenbeans, lettuce, potato, cucumber and bean shoots are smothered in peanut sauce and topped with krupuk, or prawn crackers. Rijstaffel, literally ''rice table'', is not so much a table more a tray at the Shinta. The food available in the daily buffet under the rijstaffel name is served in a metal tray divided into compartments, similar to those encountered in India. The menu changes daily: Tuesday, for instance, means spice beef, gado gado, satay, acar pickles, teri asin (dried silver fish with peanuts), lumpia (spring rolls), plus the ubiquitous steamed rice. Steamed rice is ladled out free, whatever you order, and you can request seconds and even thirds if you wish. Watch out for the small dish of either pickled vegetables or nuts placed on your table when you you sit down - it is not complimentary and will end up on the bill unless you send it away untouched. Cost of a meal for two, including beer, is $250.