There are some grapes that are difficult to harm. Malbec is one of them. It does not matter how rough or unsophisticated the treatment handed out to this hardy fruit, what ends up in the bottle is almost always enjoyable. So it is with the '98 Malbec from Trapiche winery in Mendoza, the premier wine-growing region of Argentina. All grapes are grown on the vineyard established in 1883. Argentina has an impressive wine industry, most of which is historically concentrated on serving the large domestic market. Although it has followed in the footsteps of neighbouring Chile to make wines from fashionable grapes, it is apparently trying to keep it a secret. I am still waiting for answers four months after I repeatedly faxed and phoned Argentina's consulate here. This delightful young red is real value at $79 from Force 8 Cellars, Coda Plaza, Garden Road, Central (tel: 2527-6217, fax: 2527-6255). It goes down very well with a bit of cheese and salad.