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ON THE SHELVES

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Why you can trust SCMP

You're late for a party, got to jump on a junk, and you've forgotten the wine. Oh blast, you dash into a supermarket; there's no time for scholarly contemplation. Grab something, anything.

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In cases like this, look for the oval. That's the proud label of Brown Brothers' winery of northeast Victoria. It matters not what's in the bottle; as long as it bears that distinctive label with the oval laying on its side, you know for certain it's a good, reliable wine.

This happened to me last week when I had promised to take a dozen bottles to a dusk junk trip. It had totally slipped my mind. So I skipped into the nearest Wellcome, confronted the well-stocked wine section - and was stumped. What to buy? These days, that can be a challenge in Hong Kong, now that we have wines of the world to choose from. I grabbed six chardonnays ($135 each) and a half-dozen cabernet sauvignon ($113.50). The white is a cheerful sort of swigging wine. The red is a very good, nicely ageing wine that was terrific with supper.

You can get cheaper wines these days in our supermarkets. It's hard to get better.

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