Mainland wine merchants battle expense and consumer ignorance
The head of a giant state company is entertaining a foreign visitor and offers him a choice of three expensive French wines. Surprised and delighted, the visitor chooses Saint Emilion Grand Cru - which is served in a silver cup complete with a large block of ice.
Embarrassed, the visitor explains that red wine should be served not chilled but at room temperature.
The ice is removed and the two men enjoy the drink as the grower intended.
That is one way people drink red wine in China. Another is to add Sprite, which is said to improve the taste and makes for more helpings. Serving white wine? Then add Coca Cola.
Such home-made recipes are a mixed blessing for the foreign growers who hope Chinese will take to wine as they have to hamburgers, Kentucky fried chicken, pizzas and ice cream.
They show that western wine has established itself as a luxury and prestige product but also that years of work lie ahead to turn Chinese into connoisseurs.
